On the catwalks of Copenhagen Fashion Week this season, the narrative was a two-fold: Scandi minimalism versus Scandi maximalism.
In the minimalist camp, names like Remain, The Garment, Skall Studio and Aeron showcased sleek, pared-back silhouettes in sleek, pared-back colour palettes. As for the maximalists, the likes of Rotate, Niklas Skovgaard, Baum Und Pferdgarten and schedule newcomer Caro Editions showed a mix of off-beat collections and party-ready pieces full of character and pizzaz.
Whichever way your style preference leans, there was plenty to inspire and delight this season: read on for five of the key trends that caught our eye.
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Eighties Redux
So long Y2K. This season, brands were ready to hit rewind all the way back to the 1980s. Leading the charge was Niklas Skovgaard, who presented an ode to the decade in all its glory: models danced around to vintage tracks from the likes of Michael Sembello and Madonna (occasionally wandering outside for a smoke and a beer in the sunshine) wearing key silhouettes that looked as if they belonged on Jane Fonda, Cindy Lauper, Bianca Jagger, or even Madonna herself. In the mix: leotards and legwarmers, drop-waist dresses and lace leggings, power shoulders and prom dresses.
At Rotate, Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdottir served up party-ready looks: marshmallow pink puff-ball sleeves were paired with jersey leggings, while leotards and lace fabrics gave a noticeable nod to the decade. Elsewhere, Sinead O’Dwyer, who made her Copenhagen Fashion Week debut as the winner of this year’s Zalando Visionary Award, put a modern spin on the classic 1980s aerobics uniform. Trip to the gym anyone?
Sinéad O’Dwyer
Suits Me, Suits You
For SS25, brands gave traditional tailoring an unexpected twist, reimagining the workwear classic in new fabrics and silhouettes. At Remain and The Garment, suiting took a sheer turn, showcasing a sophisticated-yet-sensual way to wear one of this year’s biggest trends for next summer. At MKDT, Baum und Pferdgarten and Herskind, tailored shorts were teamed with sharp blazers and ballet flats, while at Birrot, capri trousers were teamed with cardigan-style blazers.
The Garment
Off the catwalk, too, suiting was a street style staple. Many show-goers dressed down their looks with uber-casual footwear like Havaiana flip flops, or styled their blazer jackets with nothing but bralettes underneath.
Put A Hat On It
Fisherman sandals may have been the breakout shoe of the summer, but in Copenhagen, designers leaned on different fisherman fashion to accessorise their new collections: hats. Models at Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s MKDT Studio walked the catwalk shaded from the beating sun in tonal styles with oversized brims. Caro Editions offered a more quirky take, with designer Caroline Bille Brahe finishing each of her looks with caps almost evocative in shape of a Sou’wester rain style — all in an array of colourful fabrics with varying textures.
MKDT Studio
Caro Editions
Wear Your Allegiance
The Olympics may have come to a close, but the summer of sport shows no signs of slowing down. Rugby jerseys were the sporting styles of choice on the Copenhagen catwalks. At Baum und Pferdgarten, which staged a sports-inspired extravaganza at the city’s football stadium, preppy rugby shirts were teamed with sheer, embellished skirts, giving the look a feminine, playful spin; while Marimekko teamed oversized polo shirt-dresses with calf-high socks and sporty sneakers.
Baum und Pferdgarten
On the other end of the spectrum, sport-grunge prevailed: at Deadwood and Stamm, jerseys were worn over floor-length leather skirts and baggy trousers. Prep? Grunge? Whichever you back, now’s the time to wear your team on your sleeve.
Dress Up Your Trousers
The best way to style your trousers this season? With a dress, of course. Look to The Garment, where slinky, sheer strapless dresses billowed gently in the wind to reveal tailored pants beneath. It’s a styling hack oft adopted by Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen, known for her signature “everyday couture” looks, and her Copenhagen-based team. See also: the styling at Bille Brahe’s Caro Editions.
The Garment
Caro Editions
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