‘We always approach watchmaking through the eyes of a jeweller,’ says Drici. ‘We don’t see a case with a dial, but rather a complete object where the case and dial merge.’ That said, these miniature artworks have a purpose – to tell the time accurately – and the additional space that a stone-set dial needs can potentially cause issues with the free movement of the hands.
With proportions and thinness being priorities for Cartier, there is just 0.15mm free space between the dial and the hour hand, and on a Métiers d’Art dial, this means that many of the watchmaking processes have to be executed manually, requiring close cooperation between designers, watchmakers and setters. The quartz movement also needs to be protected from all the stresses of everyday living, and the watch is tested for water resistance to 30 metres.
According to Drici, the biggest challenge in any of these intricate timepieces is the combination of the different métiers. Putting this into context, each Panthère Songeuse requires approximately 500 hours to make – 36 for enamelling, 180 for jewellery, 261 for stone setting, and 10 for polishing – with a lead time of two to three months. Only 12 will be created, making them extremely rare. A craftsman can work for 42 years at Cartier and only ever produce 36 objects.
‘These are very precious watches that require a specific mindset. And in the Maison des Métiers d’Art we want to protect this,’ says Drici.