Sunday, December 22, 2024

Are wedges really flattering over 50? Our fashion expert reveals the secrets to not looking clunky or hefty – and why you should NEVER wear espadrilles!

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You might think the question ‘Can you wear a wedge over 50?’ requires only a simple yes or no answer. But, as is often the case in the context of over-50s dressing, the answer is ‘Of course, providing…’

I’ve given the matter plenty of thought since, back in February, almost the entire front row of Chloe’s Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalk show were wearing the label’s high wedge, black leather open-toed sandals. That was the sound of a starting gun signalling not just that wedges are back, front and centre of fashion, they’re for women of all ages and styles.

Of the line up, only Jerry Hall wasn’t wearing them. This might have been because she’s tall to start with, or they didn’t work with her outfit, both of which are possible drawbacks of the wedge — they work best under longer hemlines or just peeking out under flares.

But it could have been that Jerry, who is 67, has some reservations about wedges post-50. I wouldn’t have worn them, either, and I’m a wedge superfan who bought my first pair (or my mum did) in the 1970s.

Queen Letizia of Spain wears a pair of strappy espadrilles as she visits a sports centre in Madrid

Sienna Miller wears the Chloe Maxine wedges which have a 12.5cm wedge ¿ a fraction off 5in

Sienna Miller wears the Chloe Maxine wedges which have a 12.5cm wedge — a fraction off 5in

Almost the entire front row of Chloe's Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalk show were wearing the label's high wedge, black leather open-toed sandals

Almost the entire front row of Chloe’s Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalk show were wearing the label’s high wedge, black leather open-toed sandals

For weddings, espadrille wedges are the new high suede courts. Lady Amelia Windsor attends the wedding of Lady Gabriella Windsor wearing a pair of white wedges

For weddings, espadrille wedges are the new high suede courts. Lady Amelia Windsor attends the wedding of Lady Gabriella Windsor wearing a pair of white wedges

While the style comes and goes, I lost faith in the shoes in my early 50s and passed on my Chloe wooden sandals, Miu Miu suede slingbacks and the stonking strappy espadrilles, convinced I was past wedge-wearing age.

Almost overnight I went from being delighted to hit the dancefloor in my wedges (in case you don’t know this, they are excellent for weddings and parties because they give you longer legs, never snap off or sink into the grass, and provide a fat marshmallowy cushion for you to dance on all night) to feeling like the jolly green giant in them: clunky, hefty and Too Much.

Now I realise that this was not so much a wedge issue, but a height of wedge issue. These days I want to feel elegant — I’m 5ft 9in, so I might not feel that if I were shorter — and more secure, which means the wedge needs to be around 7 cm high. (Those Chloe Maxine wedges have a 12.5cm wedge — a fraction off 5in).

But it’s also, even more importantly, a tonal issue.

What’s brought me back to the style in the past five years or so are plain black wedges, with a peep toe and an ankle strap, the shoes that established a new sophisticated era of the wedge.

Actress Reece Witherspoon is spotted wearing a pair of blue-strappy wedges while out and about in Los Angeles

Actress Reece Witherspoon is spotted wearing a pair of blue-strappy wedges while out and about in Los Angeles

Singer Nicole Scherzinger explores the streets of Mykonos wearing a pair of creme embellished wedges

Singer Nicole Scherzinger explores the streets of Mykonos wearing a pair of creme embellished wedges 

The Princess of Wales sports a pair of creme wedges to a nature festival in 2019

The Princess of Wales sports a pair of creme wedges to a nature festival in 2019

Most of the time they’re plain suede or leather, like the Maxines, and Marks & Spencer’s canvas buckle espadrilles (£29.62, marksandspencer.com) or Zara’s cork wedges (£49.99, zara.com) are the high summer equivalent.

Wedges are subtly different from heels and that’s why they’re so useful. There’s something especially summery about them — partly because many are wood, cork or jute-soled — but also there are more occasions when a heel feels too formal and precious, and a wedge feels just right. Heels feel like dressing up; wedges like adding flair.

I would never, for example, put on high heels to head to a friend’s barbecue, but I might slip on a wedge under my jeans like Marks & Spencer’s ankle-strap tan suede espadrilles (£41.25). These are a bit too high at 9.5cm, but good for wearing with flares.

Heading to a summer party I wouldn’t bother with heels, but I’d wear a black cheesecloth dress and Rixo’s gold sandal wedges (£196, rixolondon.com). And on holiday I wouldn’t dream of taking heels (cobbles, sand, heat, and I’m not really dressing up in the evening), but some cork slides (£130, fitflop.com) put me right in the Mamma Mia mood. And so comfy.

I like a pale tan suede open-toed mule for looking like I’ve made a bit of an effort under trousers (£41.25, marksandspencer.com) and were I shorter and wanting to smarten up an everyday dress, I’d be tempted by Penelope Chilver’s leather pumps (£159, penelopechilvers.com) — a lot like the high espadrilles the Princess of Wales wears with summer dresses. (As it is, I prefer to stick with the much lower (6.5cm), ankle-strap style and you can get those from John Lewis (£69, johnlewis.com).

For weddings, espadrille wedges are the new high suede courts, but I still think they look best on 20-somethings (a bit too boho for us).

I would always opt for suede or velvet instead — velvet is fine in summer providing the event is going on into the evening. Again, Chilvers can supply (£189).

By the way, if you think you can manage a high wedge and want to be ahead of the curve then Dune’s Kaiden sandals (£95, johnlewis.com) are not at all dissimilar to those Chloe wedges, and £800 cheaper.

You’re never too old.

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