Day two of London Fashion Week‘s SS25 edition showcased the city at its very best. After a decidedly damp, grey and, in many ways, dissatisfying summer season, the sun made its glorious reappearance, imbuing the capital with a renewed buzz and sense of verve that was palpable from every angle. It felt like an important reminder that, even in trying times, London continues to shine bright – as do its many homegrown talents.
In many ways, it’s the variety and contrast on offer in London that makes it so special, and yesterday’s shows really hammered this message home. Designers took show-goers on a grand tour of the city and its many faces, from the edgiest depths of Shoreditch through to the high glamour of Mayfair, and just about everywhere in between.
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Feben SS25
The day began in a grand Georgian townhouse on Fitzroy Square, where ex-NEWGEN designer Feben presented a joyful ode to the ‘female powers of resilience,’ as the show notes put it. With ‘queen of flamenco’ Antonia Singla as her touchpoint, Feben’s collection featured dance-ready flared skirts, spotty dresses and textured minis that only became more beautiful as they moved through the room – and were further elevated by artful Manolo Blahnik shoes. The closing look was undoubtedly the highlight: a striking red beaded ‘armour’ dress with a yellow feather trim that was crafted in Accra by women artisans, and had editors clamouring for photos.
Kent & Curwen SS25Â
Kent & Curwen SS25
Speaking of desirable pieces, you could almost see the front row at Kent & Curwen adding items to their mental wish-lists as each model emerged – the revamped trench coats, fluffy ‘house slippers’, leather satchels and silk rugby shirts proving particularly popular. Guests took their pews surrounded by classical statuary in the Royal Academy Schools for an education in modern British prep style courtesy of Daniel Kearns, who is leading the historic brand in a bright and decidedly cool new direction.
Ahluwalia SS25
Then, onto the hallowed halls of Westminster for a brand that’s London through and through. Priya Ahluwalia’s Indian-Nigerian heritage was on full and fabulous display in her SS25 ‘Home Sweet Home’ collection, that featured colourful beaded embellishments inspired by her grandparent’s curtains, bold knits and wallpaper-like deadstock fabrics, cleverly styled with Pandora jewellery.
Standing Ground SS25
Standing Ground SS25
Beads also featured heavily at Standing Ground’s first solo show on the schedule, albeit hidden within the jersey layers and elegant drapery of designer Michael Stewart’s sculptural eveningwear. The recent winner of LVMH’s new ‘Savoir Faire’ prize employed the same technique to add futuristic ridges to his first-ever leather pieces, while other looks were crafted from rich velvets and sexy, semi-sheer silks. The message was clear: this is a brand worth keeping a very close eye on.
Aaron Esh SS25
Aaron Esh served his own take on night-time dressing, that had a decidedly indie, East London edge. Think Noughties Kate Moss-coded skinny tuxedos, backless halter-necks, see-through tops, silky slips, black-out sunglasses and lashings of leather, made for the sticky dancefloors of Hackney, morning after walk-of-shame and all the mischief that goes on in between.
Richard Quinn SS25
Swapping grunge for high glamour, Richard Quinn transported guests to a bygone era of old-school European elegance for spring/summer 2025. Only a setting as classic and grand as the Dorchester hotel’s ballroom could be worthy of such a spectacular collection, that saw models showcase the designer’s couture-like creations as the impossibly polished Kelly Rutherford sat front row.
Richard Quinn SS25
The combination of champagne, sparkling crystal chandeliers, a live choir, string orchestra, extravagant flower displays, and, of course, the glorious gowns, made for a particularly moving and memorable affair.
Nensi Dojaka SS25
Nensi Dojaka SS25
Tears were shed at the final show of the day, too, as Nensi Dojaka made her grand return to London Fashion Week after a two-season break. As the Albanian-born designer took her emotional final bow, it was clear that she was thrilled to be back on schedule – as was the audience made up of family, friends, press and the likes of Dina Asher-Smith and Bridgerton‘s Simone Ashley.
Nensi Dojaka SS25
As well as being a first look at Dojaka’s collaboration with Calvin Klein, the SS25 collection was a celebration of the brand’s feminine aesthetic featuring gossamer-thin organzas, delicate ruffles and embroidered flowers brought together by her signature lingerie construction. It felt like a fitting close to a day that was defined by contrasts – just like London itself.
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Clementina Jackson is Acting Site Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, working across news and features, trends, e-commerce and SEO. She was previously Fashion Editor at Cosmopolitan and Women’s Health, and Acting Digital Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, where she was named as a PPA 30 Under 30 award winner for her work on size inclusivity. An experienced fashion, travel and luxury lifestyle journalist, Clementina has also written for Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, Red and Italy Segreta.