Crete is a must-see destination for those who enjoy sun-soaked holidays in Europe. It’s an island blessed with breathtaking landscapes, both coastal and mountainous, which can be enjoyed well into November.
The mild and pleasant temperatures (average highs of 25C in October) make it a popular autumn destination for Britons fed up with the cold weather – me included. But on a recent visit to the gorgeous Greek island, I was disappointed by one of the beaches that so many online travel guides raved about.
Claimed to be the top beach in Crete by TripAdvisor and one of the best in the world according to previous rankings, Elafonisi promises azure waters, vast dunes, and even pink sand.
But the latter is hard to spot these days after years of visitors stealing the rouge-flushed sand as souvenirs. And that’s not even the worst thing about this beach.
Having spoken to locals during my time in Chania, they agreed the beach is one of the best looking on the Island but told of its rather random rise to fame.
Not long ago, Elafonisi Beach was a well-kept secret amongst locals until 2014, when it was named one of the world’s top 25 beaches on TripAdvisor.
The Kyriakakis travel guide goes as far as to say, “That’s when this beach on the southwest coast of Crete came to an end as a slice of paradise”. In just 10 years, hoards of tourists have turned the pink sand a familiar shade of beige, and the loggerhead turtles that once populated the lagoon have become almost impossible to spot.
And there’s no letting up on the over-tourism that happens at Elafonisi Beach. As you approach the remote coastline, huge parking lots can be seen to your right, each with a steward waving drivers in.
Hundreds of cars, minibuses, and coaches flock to the baron area at the top of the pathway that winds down the beachfront, which is actually situated in a protected area (the loggerhead turtles are a protected species).
After a 15-minute walk down to the beach, you’re met with overpriced cafes and restaurants advertising french fries, hot dogs and burgers. Changing stalls, separate toilets and showers are also available for visitors, so there’s no shortage of amenities.
But what looks like it should be a really lovely, natural landscape feels dirty and littered with people. The first stretch of beach, which makes up half of the lagoon, is where most people settle down for the day, with children swamped in the shallow pools of water that are dotted around.
The azure waters look murky and unpleasant in these stagnant pools, but the true wonder of the beach is further afield. If you walk through the shallow and tideless water crossing to the far side of the beach, you will leave the crowds and find crystal-clear water.
Keep walking as far as you can, and you will reach a small walkway through the sand dunes, which reveals another stretch of coastline.
Secluded and unspoiled (unlike the main lagoon), this section is a sight to behold, with varying shades of turquoise and deep blue ocean washing ashore. Swimming in the gentle waves is enjoyable and refreshing, although it can be windy.
Luckily, the varied terrain in this part of Elafonissi beach makes for some cosy sunbathing spots that shelter from the breeze. Look out for the hidden rocks in the sand as you wander the shoreline, however, as they will catch you out.
As for how Elafonisi compared to other beaches in Crete, Balos Lagoon is incredibly hard to beat. Arguably the best beach I have visited in my whole life, the steep 30-minute hike down the rocky, mountainous terrain makes the breathtaking coastline even more impressive.
Goats roam freely, and the water is as clear as possible, with colourful rainbow fish that are easy to spot as you swim in the still waters. Closer to Chania, the two coves near Agii Apostoli are not to be missed for sunset views.