Sunday, December 22, 2024

I did ultimate UK winter road trip—castle ruins, coast walks and pubs

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The Antrim Coastline in Northern Ireland is one of the most scenic and dramatic coastal areas in Eur (Image: Jun Zhang / Getty)

There’s something magical about driving Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route in winter.

The dramatic cliffs and wild seas take on an atmospheric beauty, and the usual throngs of summer visitors give way to a quieter, more personal connection with this epic route.

If you’re anything like me—someone who loves proper pubs, windswept landscapes, and delving into history—this is the perfect time to pack your bags and hit the road.

Stretching from Derry to Belfast, the Causeway Coastal Route is hailed as one of the best road trips in the world.

Lonely Planet crowned it the Number 1 Region to Visit in 2018, and Europcar recently named it the fourth-best road trip in the UK.

Derry

Kicking off in Derry, this road trip begins in one of Ireland’s most historic cities (Image: Portia Jones)

With over 120 miles of craggy cliffs, sandy beaches, ancient ruins, and quaint villages, it’s no wonder this route captures the imagination of travellers. And it’s not just about the landscapes; you’ll find an array of road trip stops, from ancient castles and harbours to modern attractions.

Winter, as it turns out, is the ideal season to explore. Popular spots like the Giant’s Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge are wonderfully free of crowds, letting you take in the magic without battling for the perfect photo.

Accommodation prices drop, making booking that boutique B&B or characterful inn a little easier. Plus, there’s nothing like warming up by a roaring fire after a bracing walk along the coast.

On this road trip, I went all out, starting in historic Derry and winding my way through a treasure trove of stops: the epic basalt columns of the Giant’s Causeway, the swaying thrill of Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, and cosy pubs like The Fullerton Arms, where I thawed out with a pint by the warming fire.

As a huge fan of Game of Thrones, I also ventured to some of the most popular filming spots along the way, as around 80% of the hit series was filmed in Northern Ireland.

By the time I reached Belfast, I’d been awed by castles, caves, and some seriously spectacular views. If you’re planning a road trip adventure, buckle up—this guide has all the best stops for you.

Kicking off in Derry, this road trip begins in one of Ireland’s most historic cities, where you can walk around the 17th-century city walls with seven gates and twenty-four restored cannons.

Among the best-preserved in Europe, these impressive fortifications encircle the city’s heart, offering views over the River Foyle and beyond. As you stroll, you’ll pass bastions, gates, and even cannons that tell stories of the Siege of Derry and centuries of conflict and resilience.

Don’t miss the Guildhall, a neo-Gothic masterpiece adorned with stained glass that depicts scenes from Derry’s storied past. Also, visit the Tower Museum, An award-winning visitor attraction containing two permanent exhibitions:

The Story of Derry details the city’s history from its geological formation to the present day, covering periods as diverse as early monasticism, The Plantation and Siege of Derry through to the recent Troubles, the second permanent exhibition, An Armada Shipwreck.

Trinidad Valencera recounts the ship’s demise in Kinnego Bay, Donegal and the subsequent recovery of artefacts, which are now on display in the museum.

Before hitting the road, have lunch at the Walled City Brewery, a family-owned brewpub specialising in craft beer flights and eclectic small plates. If you stay overnight in Derry, crash at the swish Ebrington Hotel. Situated in the historic Ebrington Square, this stylish hotel is just a short walk from many of the city’s best attractions and sites.

Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

About a 30-minute drive from Derry lies Mussenden Temple, one of Northern Ireland’s most iconic landmarks. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic, this 18th-century circular building was inspired by Rome’s Temple of Vesta. It was originally built as a library, but today, it’s a magnet for photographers thanks to its dramatic location.

If you’re visiting off-season, winter brings a special kind of solitude here. With fewer tourists around, you can hear the waves crashing below as you walk the grounds surrounding Downhill Demesne.

These sprawling estates, once home to the eccentric Earl of Bristol, are now an evocative mix of ruins and windswept fields. Downhill House, now a skeletal frame, looms like something from a Gothic novel. It’s worth wandering through the estate trails, often leading to sweeping coastal viewpoints.

Castlerock, Co. Derry

Mussenden Temple (Image: Getty)

Portrush

Portrush, perched on a peninsula along the Causeway Coast, is a quintessential seaside town with Blue Flag waters that’s worth exploring. While it hums with activity in summer, winter transforms it into a quieter haven where you can stroll along the blustery seafront in peace.

The town is best known for its golden beaches, which arc gracefully along the Atlantic. West Strand, East Strand, and Whiterocks Beach each offer their own character. East Strand, in particular, is ideal for a bracing coastal walk, with views of rugged headlands and the famous Dunluce Castle in the distance.

Whiterocks Beach, true to its name, is fringed by dramatic limestone cliffs and hidden caves waiting to be explored, though the winter tides can be fierce.

Portrush is also a gateway to some of the area’s finest attractions. Less than a 10-minute drive away, you’ll find the ruins of Dunluce Castle clinging precariously to the edge of a basalt cliff. It’s a must-visit spot, and the wild seas crashing below add to its atmospheric appeal in the winter. Legend has it that part of the kitchen collapsed into the sea during a storm, which only fuels the castle’s haunted reputation.

For a lovely post-walk pint, head to the Harbour Bar. Grab a seat by the fire and enjoy the lively banter.

Dunluce castle

Dunluce castle near Portrush (Image: Portia Jones)

Giant’s Causeway: A UNESCO Marvel

No trip along this epic route would be complete without a visit to the Giant’s Causeway.

This astounding UNESCO World Heritage Site is even more magical in winter. With the summer crowds gone, you can fully appreciate the eerie beauty of the 40,000 basalt columns that tumble into the sea.

Legend has it that the giant Finn McCool built the causeway as a bridge to Scotland to challenge his Scottish rival, Benandonner. Following the meeting between the mythical giants, Benandonner frantically ripped up the causeway as he fled back to Scotland.

The visitor centre offers an excellent introduction to the site’s geology and myths. But the real magic happens when you step onto the stones themselves.

Clamber across the hexagonal columns, listen to the waves roar, and let the wild sea air refresh your senses. On colder days, wrap up well—those Atlantic winds don’t mess around.

After exploring, pop into the Causeway Hotel for a hot chocolate or something stronger.

northern ireland

No trip along this epic route would be complete without a visit to the Giant’s Causeway. (Image: Portia Jones)

Ballintoy Harbour and The Fullerton Arms

Ballintoy Harbour, a short drive further along the coast, might just be the most charming stop on the route. Found among rugged cliffs and rocky outcrops, this tiny fishing harbour feels like a step back in time. It’s also famously a filming location for Game of Thrones, serving as the backdrop for the Iron Islands Pyke, the home of Theon and Yara Greyjoy.

In A Song of Ice and Fire, Pyke is described as an island rich with mines containing iron, lead and tin. Due to its craggy landscape, Ballintoy Harbour was considered the perfect location to recreate the beguiling Westeros island.

The winter light is particularly beautiful, casting a silvery glow over the water. From here, it’s a short jaunt to The Fullerton Arms in Ballintoy village. After a day of exploring, this cosy pub is everything you want—think roaring fires, hearty Irish stews, and a well-stocked whiskey selection. Don’t skip the creamy seafood chowder; it’s comfort food at its finest.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Just a short drive from the Giant’s Causeway, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is thrilling and a little nerve-wracking. Suspended nearly 100 feet above the sea, this swaying bridge connects the mainland to Carrick-a-Rede Island.

Originally built by salmon fishermen, it now draws visitors seeking heart-pounding views of the coastline and nearby Rathlin Island. The bridge is often quieter in winter, making it easier to muster the courage to cross.

On the other side, the island offers glorious views and the chance to spot seabirds. However, weather conditions can sometimes close the bridge, so it’s wise to check ahead. Even if the crossing isn’t possible, the coastal walk to the bridge is a reward, with panoramic views and bracing sea air.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (Image: Getty)

Cushendun Caves: A Thrones favourite

Continuing along the route, Cushendun Caves are another highlight for fans of both geology and fantasy sagas. These eerie caves, formed over 400 million years ago, became famous as a filming location in Game of Thrones where they featured as the creepy birthplace of Melisandre’s shadow creature.

The caves are easily accessible from the village of Cushendun, a charming spot with Cornish-style cottages and views of the coast.

Spend some time wandering the village before heading to the caves. The natural arches and atmospheric light make them a photographer’s dream, especially in winter when the crowds are thinner.

Game of Thrones Studio Tour: A fan’s dream

Before reaching Belfast, a detour to Banbridge for the Game of Thrones Studio Tour is well worth it to step inside the world of Westeros. This state-of-the-art attraction, opened in February 2022, celebrates Northern Ireland’s integral role in bringing the Seven Kingdoms to life.

The lush landscapes, ancient castles, and rugged coastlines of Northern Ireland served as the backdrop for much of the series, making the region synonymous with Game of Thrones.

This immersive experience is a treasure trove for fans, showcasing authentic sets, costumes, and props from the series. Step into the Great Hall of Winterfell, where Jon Snow was proclaimed King in the North, or Daenerys Targaryen’s imposing throne room in Dragonstone. The attention to detail is staggering—down to the scorch marks from her dragons.

Interactive exhibits reveal the meticulous craftsmanship behind the show, from intricate costumes and weaponry to the digital wizardry that turned green-screen scenes into sweeping battles and fantastical landscapes. You’ll also find Arya Stark’s Needle, Jaime Lannister’s gilded armour, and even the fearsome Night King’s costume up close.

The tour includes detailed behind-the-scenes videos and stories from the cast and crew, giving you a new appreciation for the sheer scale of the production.

With its indoor setting, the Studio Tour is ideal for a winter day, letting you escape the chill while immersing yourself in one of the most iconic TV series ever. It’s a fitting tribute to a show that put Northern Ireland on the global map, and for any fan of the series, this stop is nothing short of magical.

Got studio

he Game of Thrones Studio Tour is well worth it to step inside the world of Westeros. (Image: Portia Jones)

Belfast: A Fitting Finale

Your road trip ends in Belfast, a historic city packed with vibrant modern culture and music-filled bars. Start with the Titanic Belfast museum, an architectural marvel that tells the story of the ill-fated ship’s creation and voyage. It’s a poignant and fascinating experience that’s especially atmospheric in winter.

The Cathedral Quarter buzzes with life in the city centre, offering everything from street art to live music.

End your trip in one of Belfast’s historic pubs, such as the Crown Liquor Saloon, where you can toast your journey with a pint of the black stuff by a roaring fire.

Staying longer? Crash at voco Belfast, a superbly located modern hotel with a scenic view in the historic Gasworks district beside the banks of the river Lagan.

Getting to Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland is part of the common travel area, meaning there are no travel restrictions for British travellers. For more information, visit: Ireland.com/northernireland

To reach Northern Ireland, there are several convenient options, whether you prefer flying or bringing your own car for a ferry adventure.

Flying to Northern Ireland

The quickest way to start your Causeway Coastal adventure is by air. There are frequent flights from London to City of Derry Airport, Belfast International Airport, and Belfast City Airport. Direct flights from London Heathrow, Gatwick, and Stansted typically take just over an hour. Budget carriers like Ryanair and easyJet offer regular services, often at competitive prices, especially in winter.

Once you arrive, hiring a car is the best way to explore the Causeway Coastal Route at your own pace. Derry and Belfast airports have car rental desks with major providers, making it easy to hit the road right after landing. Derry is an ideal starting point for the route, while Belfast works perfectly if you prefer to tackle the drive from the other end.

Travelling by ferry

Taking a ferry is a fantastic option if you prefer to bring your own car. Stena Line offers regular services from Liverpool to Belfast and Cairnryan (in Scotland) to Belfast or Larne.

The ferries are comfortable, with onboard amenities like dining areas, lounges, and even cabins for overnight crossings. Travel times vary depending on the route, but it’s a scenic and leisurely way to make your way to Northern Ireland.

Bringing your own car gives you the ultimate freedom to explore, and you can load it up with everything you’ll need for a cosy winter road trip. It also means you won’t have to worry about rental restrictions or returning the car to a specific location.

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