Lying just 25 miles south of the iconic, and often crowded, city of Amsterdam, the Dutch city of Leiden is in the province of South Holland. In 2023, Amsterdam saw a surge in overnight tourists, with 9.4 million spending at least one night in the city.
However, with an area of 8.46 square miles of land, and 0.53 of water, as one travel blogger put it, Leiden is packed with Amsterdam-esque canals but without the Amsterdam-sized crowds.
During the Dutch Golden Era, Leiden was the second largest city of Holland after Amsterdam.
The city is famous for being a popular university city, having been established all the way back in 1575 by William I of Orange as a reward for their heroic defence during the Dutch Revolt. It is the oldest university in the Netherlands, and is one of the top in Europe, with 12 Nobel Prize winners. It is twinned with Oxford, the UK’s oldest university.
The university is famous for many discoveries, including Snell’s law – the law of refraction – and the famous Leyden jar – a device for storing static electricity. Another development was in cryogenics, when Heike Kamerlingh Onnes (1913 Nobel Prize winner) liquified helium for the first time. Albert Einstein also spent some time at Leiden during his early to middle career.
Thanks to the large student population, the city centre is home to bars, restaurants and shops, with stunning university buildings scattered throughout.
The medical gardens of Hortus botanicus are also a must-see, showcasing the city’s important role in medical science.
Leiden is an extremely walkable city, with the city centre just a 15 minute walk from the central station. All 12 of Leiden’s museums, offering a glimpse into its vast history, and other key sights are within walking distance. Alternatively, the city is easily reached by public transport.
It is recommended that one takes one of the city walks, or rent a bike from one of the numerous centres. Like Amsterdam, Leiden is cycle-friendly with dedicated pathways for exploring the city.
Walking through the city centre is like taking a step back in time to the 17th-century, with many historical and monumental buildings. Nicknamed the ‘City of Discoveries’, there is something to see around every corner. Apart from one small watch tower on the Singel, little remains of the town’s city walls. There are also two old city gates, Zijlpoort and Morspoort, dating from the end of the 17th-century.
The city is also home to some incredible churches, including the Hooglandse Kerk, or church of St Pancras, built in the 15th-century and containing a monument to Pieter Adriaansz. van der Werff, mayor of the city during the siege in 1573 to 1574.
The two branches of the Oude Rijn, which enter Leiden on the east side, unite in the centre of the city. It is also further intersected by numerous small canals with tree-bordered quays. As such, reminiscent of Amsterdam, it is recommended to take a boating tour on one of the canals to truly experience the city of Leiden.
Additionally, hundreds of buildings in the city centre are decorated with large murals of poetry, as part of a wall poem project which has been active since 1992.
One of the world’s most famous painters, Rembrandt, was born and educated in Leiden. The Young Rembrandt Studio, the 17th-century house where he learnt to paint, draw and etch from his teacher Jacob van Swanenburgh can be visited.
If flying to Schiphol Amsterdam Airport, the easiest way to travel to Leiden is by train, with the airport having an underground railway station with frequent services to the city taking about 15 to 20 minutes.
Alternatively, a trip from London to Leiden via Eurostar can take as little as four hours. The route requires just one change at Rotterdam, with one train leaving in the morning and another in the evening.