I stayed on a tiny ship around remote UK islands – it was better than a cruise

The tranquillity was only interrupted by the occasional bird call as I stood on deck, watching the sunrise paint the sky and sea in hues of red and gold.

For miles around, it seemed I was the only one witnessing this spectacle, save for the crew of a solitary fishing boat setting out for their day’s catch.

This is the kind of experience you can expect aboard a 12-passenger ship sailing from Oban, Scotland, around the Western Isles.

We were anchored off Tobermory, the capital of the Isle of Mull, its vibrant seafront shops and pubs still slumbering in the early morning.

At night, the engine of our vessel, Glen Etive, was silenced, leaving only the sound of waves gently lapping against the hull.

Despite having sailed on some of the world’s largest and most luxurious cruise ships, I hold a special affection for The Majestic Line, with its charming vessels, friendly crew and picturesque Scottish voyages.

There are no fixed itineraries. Each day, our captain, Colin, would decide our route based on the currents and weather, stopping at quaint settlements and anchoring overnight in a bay or loch.

Our chef, Graeme, prepared three mouth-watering meals daily, along with elevenses, afternoon cakes and evening appetisers, often using ingredients freshly sourced from the day’s ports.

Breakfast options ranged from porridge with a dash of whisky to kippers and full English breakfasts.

After a light salad lunch, passengers could look forward to a three-course dinner featuring fish or lamb, accompanied by either a starter or dessert and concluded with a local cheeseboard.

The crew, including steward Cameron and engineer Fergus, were all hands on deck, serving meals and drinks – it’s not often you find the captain offering toast or the head chef brewing early morning tea on a cruise.

Passengers dined together around a large wooden table at the stern of the ship. With the ship slowly rotating on its anchor, it felt like dining in a revolving restaurant before unwinding in the bar at the bow.

Glen Etive and her sister ship Glen Shiel, both purpose-built, offer five double cabins and two singles. Two other boats, the converted fishing vessels Glen Tarsan and Glen Massan, can accommodate 11 passengers.

Our group included solo travellers from Australia and the United States, along with four couples including us from England and one from Scotland.

My wife Mandy and I were fortunate enough to secure the only cabin on the main middle deck of Glen Etive, sparing us the need to navigate stairs to reach the lower accommodation. The sleeping quarters are snug, with just about 2ft of space surrounding the three sides of the double bed.

Each room comes equipped with a small wardrobe and under-bed storage, as well as an en-suite shower and toilet.

The third and top deck boasts sun loungers (which turned out to be rather optimistic given the weather we largely experienced) and the cruise line’s iconic gold-painted funnel.

The dress code on board is delightfully casual, with no formal entertainment provided beyond the lively hum of conversation that fills the air every evening post-dinner. While board games, maps, and books were available, our group found ourselves too absorbed in engaging discussions to make use of them.

In Tobermory, a stroll along the picturesque seafront had us yearning for a taste of the local ice cream or fish and chips, if only we hadn’t been so satisfyingly full from our earlier meal.

I couldn’t resist popping into the local distillery to acquire a bottle of my preferred 12 year old local malt, a delightful find from a previous voyage with The Majestic Line. The following day saw us returning to the mainland, with a stop at Salen in Ardnamurchan, where we disembarked via the ship’s tender boat and ventured to a charming loch nestled within an enchanting woodland glade.

Our penultimate day was marked by a five-hour sail under mostly “dreich” conditions, culminating in a visit to Duart Castle on Mull, where breaks in the clouds allowed sunshine to enhance the scenery.

Post-scone indulgence back on the vessel, we journeyed to a harbour to collect fresh mussels for our dinner, spotting a majestic pair of white-tailed eagles en route. The evening was spent toasting to newfound friendships ahead of our final night’s slumber and the morning sail back to Oban.

On alternative expeditions, the fleet might explore wonders such as Fingal’s Cave on Staffa or set course for islands like Rum, Jura, Iona, Muck, or Islay.

Some adventurous souls even venture out to the remote archipelago of St Kilda in the Outer Hebrides.

The Majestic Line, a company named after a fictional entity in the Scottish TV comedy series Para Handy, was established in 2004 by two pals, Ken Grant and Andy Thoms.

This year, the business was acquired by regional transport firm Craig of Campbeltown, allowing Ken, now 80, to return to his primary role as an epidemiologist battling disease in developing nations.

The new proprietors have stated they have no intention of altering the company’s successful formula.

Under their stewardship, I am confident that The Majestic Line will maintain its unique charm, exceptional service, and superb cuisine. And to that, I’ll raise a dram.

Fingal’s Cave

From Felix Mendelssohn to Jane McDonald, Fingal’s Cave has been renowned for the natural acoustics within its peculiar cathedral-like interior. This natural formation on the island of Staffa, off Mull, is made up of hexagonal basalt columns, similar to those seen on the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland.

It is believed that the two were once linked. The sea cave’s unusual echoes inspired Mendelssohn, following a visit in 1829, to compose The Hebrides overture.

Almost two centuries later, TV host Jane broke into song while visiting the landmark on a Majestic Line journey. When the episode of Cruising With Jane McDonald aired on Channel 5 in 2017, it prompted so many viewers to attempt to book a cruise that it crashed the line’s website.

Even now, bookings surge whenever it’s repeated.

Book the holiday