I took overnight sleeper train to gorgeous UK seaside town

Situated on the south coast of Cornwall, Falmouth is a busy but friendly town with a string of superb beaches and a laid-back vibe. It was recently voted the friendliest UK seaside town and one of the country’s best places to live.

It was also described as being Cornwall’s “cooler town” by TimeOut, which ranked it ninth on its 15 best places to visit in the UK.

Journalist Fiona Whitty went to stay and found beaches, loads of outdoor activities, great restaurants and “superb” accommodation at the St Michaels Resort.

Fiona and her family also had the masterstroke of travelling to Falmouth on an overnight sleeper train, avoiding a long (potentially horribly long if holiday traffic goes against you) and tedious car journey. The Night Riviera service by Great Western Railway departs London Paddington at 11.45pm.

“To fully enjoy this unique experience, we savoured a hot drink in the first-class lounge beforehand, a luxury included in the cabin cost,” wrote Fiona on The Mirror.

“As our train pulled out of the station, we found ourselves engrossed in a game of cards in the cosy on-board lounge bar, feeling rather like characters in an Agatha Christie novel.

“For sleeping arrangements, you can choose between a reclining chair or pay a little extra for a snug cabin, which accommodates up to two people in bunk beds and includes a small washbasin.

“We opted for the upgrade and after a restful night’s sleep, we woke to a light breakfast delivered to our door, just in time for our 7am stop at Truro. It was a far more enjoyable alternative to driving.”

The family stayed at St Michaels Resort, which she described as “superb”.

She said: “From our seafront balcony we could watch the world go by below on Gyllyngvase Beach – known locally as Gylly Beach and popular with SUP boarders, wild ­swimmers, sandcastle-building families and groups of friends alike.

“We were staying in a stunning apartment in The Liner, a separate block to the main hotel that combined the convenience of self-catering with its plush amenities on the doorstep.

“Three bedrooms gave us ample room to spread out while patio doors from the ensuite master bedroom and huge kitchen-diner gave us those jaw-dropping views.”

Fiona had INDIdog on her wishlist, on Falmouth’s Grade II-listed harbour wall overlooking the River Fal that’s run by husband and wife team Simon and Vanessa Clark.

“Head chef Alfie Hazlitt’s mouthwatering menu centres around local produce and seafood caught on the doorstep – as fresh and seasonal as can be,” she said.

“The langoustine, brushed with garlic butter, proved to be a real treat. They’d just been caught off the Isles of Scilly by Scottish trawlermen who traditionally only head down there once a year for just two or three weeks.

“As we watched boats bobbing in the quay we also tucked into plump scallops, silky plaice in a chorizo and bouillabaisse sauce and a roasted cod special – slow cooked in blackgarlic. The boys went for burgers – one for a gourmet, the other a chicken – washed down with movie star mocktinis, a fun alcohol-free take on the classic.

“Tim and I meanwhile stayed local with a couple of Cornish gins – including Tinkture made with organic roses – and crisp sparkling wine from Cornish vineyard Camel Valley. All the food and drink was superb – a bundle of freshness, flavour and finesse.”

There’s plenty to do in Falmouth – such as Pendennis Castle, a grand fortress built by Henry VIII to protect the River Fal. Nowadays you can climb the original winding stone staircase to the keep for a stunning 360 degree panorama or visit the Battery Observation Point, used as a Second World War lookout for enemy ships (adult from £14.50, child from £8.60, english-heritage.org.uk).

You can also hop on a passenger ferry across the estuary to St Mawes, a pretty village with smart,
pastel-coloured houses lining the seafront and a ­smattering of cafes (adult £13.05 return,child £8.10return, when booked at falriver.co.uk.

It’s also home to another of Henry VIII’s coastal fortresses, St Mawes Castle – noted for its elaborate etchings of the Tudor royal arms and Latin inscriptions designed to flatter Henry and his son Edward (adult from £8.50, child from £4.50, english-heritage.org.uk).

Fiona and her family stayed at the St Michael’s Resort.

She said: ” We discovered a fantastic health club with an indoor pool, a fantastically equipped gym and a ream of fitness classes. The 7am beach yoga was ­tempting but to save our beauty sleep we instead tried out a ­mid-morning circuits class in the outdoor gym area, where instructor Laurel put us all through a series of challenges that kept the boys quiet for 45 minutes (and me in pain for much longer).

“To soothe those tired muscles Tim and I dived into the hotel’s beautiful spa for a two-hour hydrothermal experience (from £50pp). Indoors we lazed in the 35C pool with power jets and massage nozzles, detoxed in the Cornish sea salt steam room – the only one in the world, no less – and dozed on heated loungers. Then in the outdoor spa garden we basked in the hot tub, cooled off in the cold plunge pool and re-heated in a quirky wooden barrel sauna.

“As a further relaxing treat I also had a luxurious facial with therapist Sarah, who soothed my stressed-out skin with Elemis’ nutrient-packed Superfood products. After all that pampering I felt utterly chilled.

“Before we left St Michaels we had dinner in its lovely Brasserie on the Bay, where we enjoyed uber-fresh scallops, grilled mackerel, wild sea bass and Cornish fish stew. Our Falmouth break had given us a true taste of the sea.”

• Great Western Railways offers fixed-price family tickets for two adults and four children up to 15 between London Paddington and Truro, Cornwall, for £99.50 each way in standard, £139 in first class. Add on a sleeper berth on the Night Riviera train from £45pp. gwr.com
• A three-night stay in a beachside apartment in The Liner at St Michaels Resort in Falmouth, Cornwall, costs from £550. Breakfast in the Brasserie on the Bay is £18pp. Hotel rooms also available. stmichaelsresort.com
• More info at visitcornwall.com