I visited a world wine capital also surrounded by golden sands

The wine made from this grape is so ubiquitous in the UK that there is almost no pub, supermarket or off-licence that doesn’t stock it. And I’m in the Sauvignon Blanc capital of the world.

As far as the eye can see, there are endless miles of sun-drenched grapevines and I’m looking out over them with a glass of cold, crisp Sauvignon Blanc in hand in the sunny Marlborough wine region at the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island.

It’s an area of around 88 sq miles dedicated to wine. Annually it produces around 400 million bottles and is home to more than 140 wineries and vineyards, which also produce excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But  I’d advise seeking out the smaller, family-run vineyards rather than the familiar industrial giants like Brancott Estate or Oyster Bay.

After travelling halfway around the world to reach here, I used the town of Blenheim, in the heart of Marlborough, as an ideal base to explore the lush terroir. It’s easy to get to by plane as it’s served by a domestic airport, or you may want to arrive in style, like I did, on the Coastal Pacific Picton-Kaikoura scenic railway, which has an open-air viewing carriage, gourmet food and local wine on board.

Once there, you can easily hire a bicycle, or book guided whole day or half-day trips, depending on your stamina. A good starting point is to take a tour of the MANA Winegrowers – a collective of five boutique wineries that produce organic and biodynamic wines you definitely won’t find in the aisles of your local Tesco Express.

Passionate growers from the estates of Hans Herzog, Te Whare Ra, Clos Henri, Rock Ferry and Huia support each other by sharing expertise and equipment. Each offers friendly cellar door wine tastings. All distinctive from one another, and all with a story to tell.

Like Hans and Therese Herzog, who swapped their native Switzerland for Marlborough 30 years ago. The Herzog family had been making wine on the banks of the Rhine for 500 years but driven by a desire to make bold, inventive wines, the ambitious couple sought to free themselves from stuffy “old-world” traditions and found the perfect soil and climate in the scenic Wairau Valley.

With an impressive 25-plus varieties grown onsite, master vintner Hans creates eclectic blends such as his bestselling Mistral – a combination of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.

At the rustic Te Whare Ra, a Maori name meaning “house in the sun”, Anna and Jason Flowerday, and their two sets of twin girls, all muck in tending the 11-hectare plot by hand. Aussie Anna introduces us to the winery’s Red Devon cows. The herd supplies beef that perfectly complements their deliciously spicy Pinot Noir, but also serves as eco-friendly lawnmowers and provides natural fertiliser.

In their tasting room, I try their speciality Toru blend of Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Fruity and mineral-dry, it was a favourite and I had to remind myself there was one more stop to make, at Clos Henri’s stunning vineyard. Bordered by the Wither Hills, a perfectly symmetrical timber chapel painted brilliant white stands out against an emerald green lawn and cloudless blue sky. A picnic table laden with local cheeses, ­charcuterie and bread was set out in front of the deconsecrated Presbyterian church which now serves as the estate’s tasting room.

Owned by the Bourgeois family, which has been producing wine in France’s Loire Valley for 10 generations, Clos Henri offers traditional “old-world”-style wine with a Kiwi twist. We also tasted offerings from the two other MANA members. Rock Ferry’s highly quaffable sparkling Brut Pinot Blanc was a hit, as was Huia’s biscuity-rich Chardonnay.

Our expert guide, Zane Kennedy from Wine, Art & Wilderness, shared his extensive knowledge of the area as we roamed between vineyards. He pointed out a sprawling grove of native manuka trees lining the roadside, from which the highly prized honey is made. Not to be confused, he told us, with the similar-sounding and almost identical-looking kanuka trees nearby.

The family firm offers pick-your-own-adventure trips covering Marlborough and Nelson, at the northernmost tip of the island. Art enthusiasts can visit galleries and studios in Nelson’s thriving cultural scene. Or take a guided hike through the Abel Tasman National Park and cool off with a dip at the golden-sanded Medlands Beach.

You can plan trips at your leisure, or pack it in like we did – a gentle amble around the stunning Lake Rotoiti in the morning, a paddle in a waka (a Maori canoe) on the azure blue waters of Kaiteriteri Beach in the afternoon, rounding off the day with another tipple-tasting session at the Riwaka River Estate.

For a luxurious stay, the newly-opened Pihopa Retreat in Nelson’s Grampian hills, offers stunning suites surrounded by 5.5 acres of landscaped gardens, a swimming pool and a giant chess set should you feel the urge to exercise body and brain at the same time. Chalets are elegantly decorated, and each have a wooden-decked balcony facing out on to picturesque views of the city. A very generous breakfast is served in the main house – another deconsecrated chapel still with the original pews.

I was already happily stuffed when owner Sarah Mellor surprised me by asking how I would like my eggs. Pacing myself is not a particular talent. Poached, with avocado and chilli, if you must know.

After sloshing your way through Marlborough’s vineyards and wineries, the Maruia River Retreat offers some well-needed rest and recuperation. Located next to Kahurangi National Park, about a two-hour drive from Nelson, it is a secluded sanctuary nestled in a 180-hectare nature reserve of near-native rainforest, and named after the river it perches on.