A total of 749 cruise ships brought a staggering 1.2 million passengers to Mykonos in 2023 alone, almost double that of the previous year.
In addition, nearly 800,000 people arrived by ferry, just under the number in 2019 – showing a significant recovery from the pandemic.
The island had the capacity to host about 50,000 tourists per night, with 225 hotels and over 5,000 short-term rentals booked on platforms such as Airbnb. Together hotels offer around 8,000 rooms, with 16,500 beds – 3,000 more than in 2019.
However, you can be almost certain that the vast majority would have stayed in the most popular areas, concentrated around the west and south coasts, in and around Mykonos Town, Ornos Beach and Platis Gialos Beach.
Mykonos has gained a reputation for glitz and glamour with its upscale resorts, fine dining and exclusive beach clubs. To find peace and tranquillity, you must venture to the island’s less-populated corners.
Despite reports of overtourism in Mykonos, travellers can still find strips of sand that have remained unchanged since the first visitors arrived on the island in the 1980s.
If there is a taverna nearby, you will find the same exquisite twists on classic Greek dishes as elsewhere on the island, but with the bonus of being served homely classics made with the freshest local products.
The biggest surprise when looking for Mykonos’ quieter beaches is found right next to the port in Tourlos, just under two miles from the main town. Agios Stefanos is sandy, with water that gradually gets deeper – making it perfect for families – and is mostly sheltered from the wind.
But for those looking to escape the crowds, its greatest draw is that it has all the facilities you could want without the music-filled party atmosphere of the celebrity beaches.
Being on the west coast, Agios Stefanos also benefits from great sunsets and views of Delos island.
Agia Anna beach in Kalafati, on the island’s east side, is just a 20-minute drive from Mykonos Town, and is an area loved by locals, with a laid-back atmosphere certainly not found on the flashier sides of the island.
Another destination for tourists in Mykonos who want to avoid the crowds is Fokos beach, on the northern side of the island. The beach is accessible via scooter along unpaved tracks, frequented more by goat herders than tourists. With a wide sandy beach and clear turquoise waters, there are no facilities here, but there is a small traditional taverna nearby with fresh food and friendly staff.
Many older islanders fear the loss of their age-old way of life as tourism continues to boom. Mykonos has become known as a summertime island of 24/7 glitz, with its physical past feared to be disappearing amid a relentless onslaught of construction vehicles.
According to Booking.com, there are 79 five-star hotels on Mykonos, while Tripadvisor lists a staggering 85.
But the least visited parts of Mykonos still provide a glimpse into traditional Mykonos.
A tourist who ventured beyond the town wrote on Tripadvisor: “A lovely beach… away from the crowds in the rest of Mykonos. There is a mix of people on the beach, but there is loads of room.”