“Britishness, for Burberry, is not merely a matter of heritage aesthetic choices, it’s the foundation of the brand’s authenticity and explains its appeal worldwide,” says
Dr Elizabeth Kealy-Morris, Senior Lecturer in Dress and Belonging at Manchester Metropolitan University.
Another challenge for Burberry is reclaiming the trench coat. It’s the item upon which the brand built its success. Gabardine, the material from which trenches are traditionally created, was introduced by Thomas Burberry at his Basingstoke outdoor outfitters in 1879.
Since then, the trench has spanned a multitude of cultural touchpoints from being worn by officers during the First World War, by George Mallory when he attempted to scale Everest in 1924 and by the film stars ranging from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca to Meryl Streep in Kramer vs Kramer.
Astonishingly, in 1965, one in five coats exported from Britain was made by Burberry. More recently, everyone from Kate Moss to Kate Middleton have worn Burberry’s trenches.
“Burberry’s trench coat is more than just a design: it’s a cultural icon, rooted in functionality brought by climate, and transformed into a fashion staple,” says Dr Kealy-Morris. “A brand that weaves nostalgia and tradition into its brand ethos offers customers a sense of heritage which stands in stark contrast to the temporality of contemporary fast fashion.”
You can now walk into almost any fashion store and pick up a trench coat at any price point from labels as diverse as Japan’s Uniqlo, France’s Sézane, Spain’s Zara or Sweden’s Toteme. It will be a tall order for Schulman and chief creative officer Bradford-born Daniel Lee, if he remains in post, to remind customers around the world that a Burberry trench is worth the investment.
It will be the fight of Burberry’s life – but equipped with its ready-for-anything trench coat roots, it’s one it can certainly win.