Businesses in a pretty seaside town are said to be “in survival mode” because a tourism downturn has left swathes of holiday cottages sitting unbooked and empty – while the community is “just hanging on” as locals struggle to find a home to rent or buy.
Cornwall has long been one of the UK’s most sought-after ’staycation’ destinations – and this popularity reached fever-pitch during the Covid pandemic. The tiny but picture-perfect town of Porthleven was one seaside community that benefited from the Covid boom.
However, businesses are reporting a sharp downturn in visitor numbers so far this year. And the finger of blame has been pointed at “greedy” holiday cottage owners – who charge thousands of pounds a week for their properties.
Ross Sloan is the head chef at the renowned Kota restaurant on Porthleven’s historic harbour – which is now home to some the UK’s best restaurants. This esteemed eatery is the flagship restaurant of Jude Kereama – who was a favourite on BBC’s Great British Menu 2021 and was named ‘Chef of the Year’ in the 2019 Trencherman’s Guide Awards.
Kota boasts three AA rosettes, a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was named ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in the Cornwall Life Food & Drink Awards and was one of The Telegraph’s Top 50 Summer Restaurants in Britain. However, head chef Ross Sloan admits that even Kota has seen a big difference in trade so far this year.
He told Express.co.uk: “We’re ticking over – but we are having to streamline things and have less staff on. And if we’re busy, we just have to deal it.
“The thing is, we’re very cheap for the quality of our food. Where else can you get a taster menu as good as ours for 75 quid?”
“Other places are charging the same prices, but they’re not offering the same quality. And a lot of businesses – those that rely on tourists – are now in survival mode,” said Mr Sloan.
In recent years, big-name chefs – such as Rick Stein and Michael Caines – have opened restaurants in Porthleven, only to close them within a year or two. Mr Sloan believes this is because they relied too heavily on tourism – which can be a fickle mistress.
“They just don’t do well here,” said Mr Sloan of these culinary heavyweights. “The restaurants were too expensive – the locals didn’t want to eat there.”
Consequently, local trade is the backbone of most successful businesses in Cornwall. And Mr Sloan says the downturn in tourism this year is hitting those businesses that rely more heavily on tourism hardest.
But why has tourism dropped off? Mr Sloan reels off a raft of factors.
He told Express.co.uk: “Landlords and second home owners are being greedy. They’ve put the prices up so much that if people come on holiday they can’t afford to eat out.
“But, you know what, if those landlords have mortgages, their costs have gone up too. And restaurants have had to put their prices up – because their costs have gone up.
“Everyone’s costs have gone up. Rates have up. Electricity has gone up. Everything has gone up. “
“People can go abroad for far less than a holiday here. People want to get away from this country – and this government.
“People who still have mortgages or rent to pay, can’t afford to go out as much as they did – so the customer demographic has changed. It’s mainly people in their 60s now – the DINKIES.”
Mr Sloan’s views are echoed by Kelvin Batt, who owns the nearby Shoals Brewery in a former boatyard next to the Kota restaurant – and the harbourside Mussel Shoal, which eschews Kota’s fine dining for ‘fun dining’.
He told Express.co.uk: “If you’re a business and you rely on tourists, you’re going to struggle. You need support from locals to survive.
“My businesses are much more about the local trade – the brewery is about 80 per cent local, trade. The Mussel Shoal is about 80 per cent locals.”
“Bookings are down – lots of the holiday homes are empty. The holiday home owners don’t want people to know about it. I think they got a bit too greedy with prices.
“If you’ve spent two grand on a holiday home for a week, you’re not going to go out to eat every night. Everybody’s cost of living has gone up and people just don’t have the money.
“If your focus is the local trade, you’ll be alright – but anyone who is depending on tourism is going to struggle.”