A good knife is the cornerstone of any kitchen, but that’s not to say you need a full collection. Yes, there are chef’s knives, petty knives, Japanese santoku knives and bread knives, but think about how you really cook and equip accordingly. As Anthony Bourdain wrote in Kitchen Confidential: “Please believe me, here’s all you will ever need in the knife department: one good chef’s knife, as large as is comfortable for your hand.”
The quest for the perfect knife is, however, personal; what feels right (the shape, the weight) will differ from person to person. “You’ll only know the one when you pick it up,” says chef and restaurateur Tom Kerridge. “It must feel like an extension of your hand.” But with a bewildering number available, we asked some of the UK’s top chefs for their favourite knives. Whichever way you go, though, be sure to get a steel or whetstone while you’re at it, to keep that knife on point.
1
Meera Sodha
Feast columnist and author of Dinner
(out in August)
“I love my Global G-80. It’s light and feels good in the hand, and I can get through a lot of chopping without the fear of a big, bad blister because there are no joints and bolts to rub against; it’s just one seamless piece of stainless steel from tip to butt. Global also sells a simple pull-through knife sharpener to keep the edge nice and keen.”
Buy: £145
“Expensive doesn’t always mean best. Many chefs, including myself, swear by a standard Victorinox; they’re easy to work with, maintain and find. Yes, there is something satisfying about a beautifully made Japanese steel blade with a hand-carved wood handle, but the upkeep is daunting. Plus, opting for Victorinox leaves you with some extra cash to invest in a small, serrated knife, which I find indispensable. Italian nonnas might use them for just about everything, but for the rest of us, they’re perfect for tasks that need a bit more precision.”
Buy: tomato utility knife, from £6.34
or chef’s knife, £33.99
3
Andi Oliver
Chef, broadcaster and author of
The Pepperpot Diaries
“I’ve just got a set of fabulous knives from HexClad. They’ve got a gorgeous weight to them, they’re affordable and they feel quite chic. A good knife changes the whole complexion of your cooking, which you don’t realise until you get a good, well-crafted, beautifully sharp one. Suddenly, cutting onions is like cutting butter.”
Buy: paring knife, from £49.99
4
Rukmini Iyer
Feast columnist and author of
The Green Cookbook
“I blunt knives just by looking at them. Before I met my husband (who came with a nice set of Japanese knives), my best one was always the largest and sharpest I could find in Sainsbury’s, such as a Sabatier or Victorinox. I’m sorry to admit that better knives are wasted on me, and a sharp supermarket knife will do the job fine.”
Buy: large cook’s knife, £11
5
Tim Hayward
Restaurateur, broadcaster and author
of Steak
“Get the nicest santoku-style knife you can afford. They’re great general-purpose Japanese knives that are light and easy to keep sharp.”
Buy: santuko knife, £40
or from £34
“I love Blenheim Forge for chef’s knives; they’re not cheap but they’re well made. I love the way they feel, the weight, the handle, the blade …. I’m obsessed. I use mine for everything. Kitchen Provisions also has a really great selection.”
Buy: from £190
“You’ll only know the one when you pick it up, so go to a cook’s shop. You need a knife that’s 18-20cm because you can do all the bits and bobs like slicing and chopping, but it doesn’t have to be the most expensive one. It’s the one that feels best in your hand, with the right weight.”
“Hand on heart: Victorinox. Get yourself a chef’s knife and a paring knife, and they will last you a lifetime – or you’ll get so much work out of them, just get new ones when they’re spent. I don’t like kitchen kit that you need to be precious about; plus, in our home, if you don’t go in the dishwasher, you don’t exist.”
Buy: chef’s knife, £27.58
or £13 for a paring knife set of two
“While I love my Global 20cm cook’s knife, I use my small Ambrogio Sanelli paring knife more.”
Buy: £140
10
Ravneet Gill
Feast columnist, pastry chef and judge on Junior Bake Off
“I like Victorinox tomato knives; they’re ace for quickly chopping bits and can go in the dishwasher. They’re among my most used knives. I also love my All Day Goods knives, although you have to care for them as they can get ruined easily.”
Buy: Victorinox tomato knife, £6
or £6.34
11
Margot Henderson
Chef and co-owner of Rochelle Canteen
in London
“I buy knives like I buy wine, which is what I can afford rather than through deep knowledge. I’m obsessed with Japanese knives, though. You don’t want a really showy-off thing, but one that is beautiful and sharp. And it’s all about weight: not too heavy, but not too light. I have a small 7cm knife from Kataba in London, which is a brilliant all-rounder.
Buy: from £85
12
Richard Corrigan
Chef-patron of the Corrigan Collection hospitality chain
“It would have to be the knives from Gustav; I still have my original, which I first used when working out in Holland in my 20s. They’re incredibly well made and not hugely expensive.”
Buy: from £11.98
13
Paul Ainsworth
Chef-owner of Paul Ainsworth at No 6, Padstow, Cornwall and author of For the Love of Food
“I use HexClad knives both in my kitchen at home and at work; they’re beautifully made, great looking, incredibly sharp and perfectly weighted.”
Buy: from £49.99
or
14
Philip Khoury
Head pastry chef at Harrods and author of A New Way to Bake
“I’m not super fancy about my knives, but there are two I cannot live without. First, the bread knife from Victorinox; everyone needs a serrated knife, whether it’s for bread or halving cakes, it glides through so many things. Then, the cook’s knife from David Mellor; I love the weight distribution and it stays sharp – I think I’ve sharpened it twice in the three years I’ve had it. To be honest, I put it in the dishwasher, even though I know you’re not supposed to.”
Buy: Victorinox bread knife, from £35
David Mellor cook’s knife, £36
Spence Blades uses the finest materials, and the knives are a joy to use. A small paring knife, a curved boning knife and a chef’s knife will be good friends forever.”
Buy: individual knives from £175
16
Mitch Tonks
Founder of The Seahorse in Dartmouth, Devon and the Rockfish group of restaurants
“I use a Japanese santoku knife, which is a good utility knife. A good knife is worth investing in, but it’s also personal, so it’s important to pick it up and make sure the handle suits you, that it’s comfortable and it also feels balanced. Everyone will have a different view of that, so you really need to go to a shop and hold it.”