London Fashion Week spring/summer 2025 kicked off with a Charli XCX gig and ended with a secret Mowalola performance. In between these gritty club nights were moments of creative defiance, as both young and established designers put two fingers up to the shaky retail landscape and delivered some of their most personal collections to date. Here are the British Vogue team’s highlights.
Chopova Lowena
Rodeo girls, fairies, witches, villains, former Vogue editors and their dads walked Chopova Lowena’s spring/summer 2025 show – all striding as though they had somewhere to urgently be with their Victorian-inspired medallions, rhinestone-covered swimwear and Hellmann’s mayo bags. But it’s not the eccentric, Americana-tinged fashion, the skater-girl beauty (including Chopova’s first scent) or the pounding mash-up soundtrack that has stayed with me. Rather, the lesson brand founders Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena hoped to teach the latter’s baby twins while creating the bells-and-whistles edit. “Show your knickers because they are ruffled and laced up satin bloomers. Spill your guts on an emotional hoodie printed with poetry and verse. Wear your heart on your sleeve, wear it on your shoe, your bag, your necklace…” File this under “lessons to live by” from these fashion superheroes, who invited us into their no-holds-barred universe with two tiny new studio assistants! Alice Newbold
Loutre (Fashion East)
I sensed I’d love Pie Schiele’s debut at Fashion East when she divulged to British Vogue before her show that her first major fashion purchase was a Maison Margiela coat. Sure enough, her collection took cues from the Antwerp brand’s codes of deconstruction, presenting a mashed-up wardrobe for city life, that incorporated thrifted pieces, like panelled trench coats, faux-fur frothing velvet sports jackets, Prince of Wales check jackets and silk Bermuda shorts. Her styling trick for the season? Pointed flats paired with the perfect white socks. Laura Hawkins
Standing Ground
I was truly captivated by Standing Ground – the way the colours were layered and blended created a bold yet elegant visual impact, and the draping was both intricate and effortless, giving the designs a fluidity that felt ahead of its time. The attention to detail was remarkable, from the fine textures to the innovative use of fabric. What stood out even more was that this was the first standalone show from Michael Stewart. The casting also felt intentional, with each model embodying the avant-garde spirit of the collection. Eniola Dare
Talia Byre
From the moment I first came across Talia Byre, I have wanted everything that she creates. I see myself in all her tongue-in-cheek, innately flattering – and, above all, fun! – clothes, and have joked with her multiple times that I’d buy her entire collections if I won the lottery (watch this space…) Her spring/summer 2025 proposition didn’t disappoint: the fuzzy shearling miniskirt, exaggerated-shoulder bomber jacket, suede barrel bag and disco rugby top are all on my wish list. I’ve got my EuroMillions numbers at the ready. Alice Cary