The September shows are always secretly a bit of a hoot. With freckles still speckling editors’ skin and the faint possibility of an afternoon spritz in the air, there are holiday tales to tell as well as investment pieces to discuss. The street-style looks reflect this dichotomy. Transitional jackets jostle for attention, while trophy bags get the fashion paps craning their cameras, but there’s still the odd colour-pop friendship bracelet here, a souvenir bag charm there…
As the industry gets caught between the back-to-school mood (the promise of new knits! Shiny loafers!) and the desire for an everlasting summer of bubble skirts and boho tops, here are the serious yet ever-so-slightly frivolous looks to expect to see on the spring/summer 2025 show circuit, as dictated by the great and good at Copenhagen Fashion Week – as always, a quirky barometer of what’s to come.
Crisp classics
The tailored cohort do not want to be reminded that they dabbled in the rara skirt trend while lost in Worthy Farm’s fields. It’s strictly crisp cottons, sharp suiting and sensible leather goods in classic colourways from here on in. Tucked neatly in their bags, you’ll find Japanese notebooks and pencils, as per The Row’s quiet luxury diktat, while an Oura ring will be their guiding light as normal business resumes.
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
Back to basics
There’s nothing basic about dry-cleaning all your button-downs in preparation for the new season. September is all about the simplicity of a great shirt, the preppiness of a pair of polished loafers, and a pressed pair of darker wash jeans, as fashion recentres itself after a summer of bikini-ing round Hydra. Yes, there will still be the requisite ballet flats, which the industry remains charmed by, the flecks of bohemia as decreed by Chloé girls (the “hobo” bag is a good everything-but-the-kitchen-sink style to navigate show hopping), and the sportswear that bridges the gap between suiting and streetwear, but, by and large, there’s a freshening up across the board. Starched whites, after all, look wonderful with a tan.