Unknown UK beauty spot easily rivals Lake District and has world’s darkest skies

This is a place of raw beauty, with undulating hill, single-track roads, steep valleys, past dense woodlands and ancient stone bridges that span fast-flowing streams.

There are small market towns, vast expanses of clear water cradled by rugged hills and fringed by a patchwork of heathland and forest.

No, it’s not the Lake District, though it’s certainly a match for it. This is the Elan Valley, an underrated reservoir valley in mid Wales that deserves to be celebrated.

Located near the small town of Rhayader in Powys, this scenic valley has vast reservoirs and Victorian-era dams that have been quietly serving one of England’s largest cities for over a century.

While the Elan Valley might not quite have the pull of the famous Cumbria tourist attraction, or even of its nearby national parks  within Wales, this unique landscape has much to offer adventure-seekers.

With more than 70 square miles (181sq km) of peaceful, dammed reservoirs and abundant cycle routes and hiking trails, Elan Valley is an ideal spot for scenic solace and adventures away from the crowds. Despite its relatively remote feel, there are plenty of things to do, from stargazing to mountain biking and boutique shopping. 

Explore the Dams

The estate’s Victorian dams are among the green hills, where functionality meets scenic beauty. Built over 100 years ago to supply water to Birmingham, these distinctive dams are a massive draw for photographers who come to snap the cascading waters.

The story of the Elan Valley begins in the late 19th century, when Birmingham, a city at the height of the Industrial Revolution, was rapidly expanding. The city needed a clean, reliable water source, and after much searching, engineers set their sights on the remote Elan Valley. With its high rainfall and steep, narrow landscape, the valley was the perfect location for a chain of reservoirs.

In 1892, work began. Over 3,000 workers were brought in to build dams, reservoirs and aqueducts. By the time the project was completed in 1904, the Elan Valley had been transformed.

Four main dams were constructed: Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is an engineering marvel, built from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.

The Caban Coch Dam, for example, looks like a natural cliff face from a distance, yet up close, its sheer size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are nothing short of awe-inspiring. The reservoirs themselves—vast, deep bodies of water—reflect the surrounding hills and sky, creating a scene of calm.

A map of the estate can be procured from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, and staff are also happy to advise on scenic routes to see the dams. The best time to take a slow drive around the estate is after heavy rainfall (not exactly rare in Wales) when reservoir water spills over the steep structures. You can also book a bespoke tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris and find all the hidden corners with a local expert.

Discover the Elan Valley Trail

One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is by strolling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail, reports WalesOnline.

This 13-mile (21-kilometre) path follows the route of the old railway that brought materials to the valley during the dam’s construction. Today, a well-maintained trail winds through some of the valley’s most scenic spots.

The trail starts from the pretty community of Cwmdauddwr, located near the market town of Rhayader. You can ride the trail in either direction but most people head west, towards the valley.

The route climbs 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and passes the impressive Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When they are full, millions of gallons of water cascade over the historic, 120-ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch—a picture-perfect moment.

This trail also offers plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, including bats and red kites. The latter are remarkable birds of prey with angled wings and distinctive forked tails. It’s a relatively easy walk or cycle, perfect for families or those who want to take things slower. As you follow the trail, you’ll come across several spots perfect for a picnic or to set up your tripod and get some shots of water spilling over the dams.

A Sky Full of Stars

With stargazing becoming an increasingly popular holiday activity, the Elan Valley is in a perfect position to capitalise. It has one of the darkest, clearest and most unpolluted skies in the world.

In 2015, the Elan Valley Estate achieved International Dark Sky Park status, one of the few places in the world where the night sky is so clear that it’s recognised for its stargazing potential.

On a clear night, the sky above is nothing short of magical. The Milky Way stretches across the heavens like a shimmering band of celestial light, and countless stars twinkle in the inky blackness.

The constellations are so clear that you can easily pick out Orion, the Plough, and other familiar constellations, even without a telescope.

There are several optimal stargazing spots in the estate, where visitors can take a quiet moment to connect with the cosmos or even attempt astrophotography that combines historic dams with big skies.

Claerwen car park, Craig Goch, Teifi Pools, and Pont Ar Elan are among the easily accessible sites in and around the Elan Valley.

If you’re new to stargazing and are keen to learn the basics, several dark sky events are run by organisations such as the Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales.

Have an off-road biking adventure

The Elan Valley has an excellent reputation for epic mountain biking, and Red Bull has named it one of Wales’ top mountain biking destinations.

While plenty of established trails within the valley exist, off-road adventures can be found along rocky bridleways and wilder landscapes where you’re unlikely to happen upon another soul.

Companies like Mountain Bike Wales offer guided biking adventures, and expert bikers can lead you through gnarly single tracks, frothing river crossings, and down sweeping, green valley descents.

This is biking for adventurous souls who want to explore more challenging rides on uneven terrain, away from the crowds and signposted trails.

Wildlife spotting

Over 80% of the valley is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), rich in wildlife and remarkable landscapes.

Thanks to its diverse habitats and careful management, the Elan Valley is a haven for wildlife. The valley’s woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands provide homes for various species, from birds and mammals to insects and plants.

Birdwatchers will be particularly pleased with the variety of species found here. The reservoirs attract waterfowl like tufted ducks, great crested grebes, and goosanders, while the surrounding forests are home to woodpeckers, nuthatches, and restarts.

The open moorland is a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally, peregrine falcons spotted soaring high above.

Small-scale cattlekeeping is also a crucial part of farming in Elan Valley. Today, only a handful of farms continue this practice. Keep an eye out, and you’ll see cattle grazing extensively on the open hill and in some enclosed habitats.

The Elan Valley’s flora is just as impressive. Dense woodlands are home to ancient oaks, and the moorlands are covered in a carpet of heather, bilberry, and mosses.

In the spring and summer, the valley’s meadows burst into life with wildflowers, adding a splash of colour to the landscape.

Go boutique shopping in Rhayader

Rhayader has long been a mid-Wales hub for weary travellers and was used as a staging post for drovers and those travelling the long London to Aberystwyth route.

Today, the market town is known as the gateway to the Elan Valley and can be found just outside the estate. It’s a convenient base with several independent shops, cafés, and pubs, and also positions itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales.’

You’ll find a compact shopping area where you can browse a selection of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing and local souvenirs. One of the more novel shopping offers here is Hafod Hardware, a retro family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895.

Alongside typical DIY items and kitchenware, you can also pick up vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially made Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars.

Swing by The Lost ARC for a post-shop lunch and coffee in this kooky community café. Be sure to order the Welsh rarebit—toasted bread smothered in warm, mature Cheddar, Welsh ale, and a smidge of laverbread and mustard. For an epic Sunday Lunch, head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and vegetables and an appropriately sized jug of gravy.

Where to Stay in and Around the Elan Valley

When visiting the Elan Valley, Rhayader offers a diverse range of accommodations that cater to various needs, whether travelling solo, with family, or as part of a larger group. Here are some top places to stay, carefully chosen for their amenities, comfort, and proximity to the town and the Elan Valley.

Mid Wales Holiday Lets

These reasonably priced holiday lets can sleep up to 44 people, with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch.

The handsome redbrick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together in the Elan Valley area.

They are also well-equipped for cyclists, offering secure bike storage to keep your gear safe.

After a long day of hitting the trails, you can unwind in the bubbly outdoor hot tub, perfect for soothing those aching muscles.

The spacious living areas and modern kitchens make these townhouses feel like a home away from home at Mid Wales Holiday Lets, while the location in Rhayader ensures you’re close to both the Elan Valley and the town’s amenities.

Ty Morgans

For a stay in the heart of Rhayader, Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that blends traditional charm with a modern feel.

This boutique and well-priced accommodation is situated at the crossroads of Rhayader, making it a perfect base for exploring the town and the Elan Valley area.

It is thoughtfully designed, incorporating original features like oak beams and stone fireplaces while offering all the modern amenities you’d expect, including ensuite bathrooms.

Ty Morgans also has an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can enjoy various meals, from full Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. The central location means you’re just a short stroll away from local shops, pubs, and the Riverside Walk.

Elan Valley Hotel

Located just a short drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel is a top choice if you want a blend of comfort and convenience wrapped up in a boutique hotel experience.

Here, you’ll find well-appointed rooms with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with comfort in mind, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.

The hotel’s restaurant is known for its excellent menu, which focuses on locally sourced ingredients and offers an authentic taste of Wales.

It’s an ideal spot for those who want easy access to the Elan Valley’s many trails and reservoirs while enjoying a bit of luxury.