Walkable city in the world’s happiest country is and underrated gem of Europe

Tampere is lesser-known than Finland’s capital, Helsinki, but the city is an underdog of the country and not to be missed by those who enjoy exploring on foot.

Despite excellent and easy-to-navigate public transport available throughout the city, Tampere is the kind of place that’s best explored by wandering alongside the breathtaking lakes and scenery.

The city, which is known as the sauna capital of the world, is also the second-largest urban area in Finland, and one that’s celebrated for its walkability, which stems from a well-thought-out urban design, and a compact city centre.

Its comprehensive pedestrian infrastructure means it’s easy and safe for residents and visitors to traverse the city on foot comfortably and efficiently, as I discovered on a visit earlier this year.

In just three days I managed to hit the major sights across Tampere with plenty of downtime in between. Unlike populous London, the attractive sauna-centred city wasn’t filled with people rushing to their destination but rather a slower-paced and friendly crowd.

One of the best things about Tampere is the freedom to walk aimlessly around the city and quickly find your way again – even without the help of your phone’s GPS or a map. Plus there are so many benches and beautifully clean viewing spots to make use of, there’s always space to have a break and soak up the scenery.

But with the help of Visit Tampere, I experienced a well-planned route that was spread over three days. However, there’s no reason why it can’t all be crammed into one full day in the city.

From the Nokia Arena, situated on the west side of the city, to Pyynikki, Tampere’s “central forest” on the east side, the walk takes just 45 minutes. And there’s a wealth of interesting stops to explore on the way.

One of the more central spots to start your one-day walk around Tampere is the Tammerkoski Rapids. The fast-flowing water channel is a poignant landmark of the city, which is nestled between two beautiful lakes; Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi.

Near the rapids, you’ll find the Tampere Cathedral – a historical location that is home to Hugo Simberg’s unconventional church art and Lars Sonck’s impressive architecture. Follow the Satakunnankatu street and over the rapids to end up in the Finlayson area, also known as the old town of Tampere. 

This area is regarded as the heart of Tampere and is also referred to as “a city within a city”. The enormous building, a huge textile factory, sits on the banks of the rapids and now houses a range of offices, businesses and restaurants in addition to a museum (Finnish Labour Museum Werstas), that details the long history of the Finlayson & Co establishment.

Walking under the main entrance you tread in the footsteps of thousands of past factory workers. Free admission to the labour museum includes exhibitions, such as the original steam engine of Finlayson, at its original place in the engine room.

From here, wander to the Stable Yards which are an extension of the Finlayson area. Here you’ll find the Finlayson Church, built for factory workers and their families, and the idyllic Tallipiha Stable Yards. Housing the factory owner’s animals in the olden days, this cute little yard with historical stable buildings hosts handicraft shops, family events and a café with delicious baked goods and a homely lunch.

Those with a sweet tooth should stop by Stable Yards Chocolate Shop to try their incredible offering of truffles and salty liquorice – the staff are some of the happiest people I have come across in the city and there’s so much to try.

Across the road from the Stable Yards, you’ll find Milavida, the former home of one of the owners of Finlayson, which is now a museum, café and restaurant. Just taking a walk around the mansion is worth it for the view opening up to Lake Näsijärvi and there’s a quaint park you can wander through to get to it.

For a true taste of Tampere’s forestry, venture towards Pyynikki – the Finnish equivalent of New York’s Central Park. The district of Pyynik is wrapped by humming pine forest on top of a moraine ridge, and in the middle of the forest, you’ll find well-lit jogging paths, fresh air and breathtakingly beautiful landscapes across the lakes to the neighbouring municipalities.

In Pyynik, the heartbeat of the city is only a stone’s throw away, and there is enough to do all year round: in winter there is a ski trail in the forest, and on summer days you’ll even find a sandy beach.

Stop by the cafe, Pyynikin Munkkikahvila and tuck into some delicious Finnish doughnuts with a hint of cardamom alongside a cup of coffee – a beverage loved by the nation. You can even buy a ticket to journey up the incredible viewing tower that has unrivalled views over the city.

After perusing the lush green forest, make your way back east and visit the Tampere Market Hall. It’s easy to find, situated on the main street of Hämeenkatu, which is the heart of the city. 

The old-school market which debuted in 1901 is hidden inside the modern shopping centre and is renowned as the biggest indoor market in the Nordic countries. With more than 30 vendors selling high-quality products and plenty of fixed restaurants on-site, the hall is a culinary wonder for foodies seeking Finnish delicacies and other European cuisines.

Fans of French menus must try the 4 Seasons restaurant inside – you won’t regret it if not just to learn about the fascinating staff who cook up incredible food – including a delicious seafood bisque. After a bite to eat, take a short walk to the Sauna Restaurant Kuuma for a luxurious Finnish sauna experience and a dip in the lake outside.

To end the evening, the Villit ja Viinit wine bar is not to be missed, with knowledgeable sommeliers on hand to serve an intriguing tasting menu in a cool but casual setting.